Day 4 (6/25)

 6/25

     Holy wind. Got the full experience of the prevailing prairie winds today on our last bike ride of the trip. Up a little later this morning with the benefit of a comfy bed to avoid the storms last night. Made some pancakes with the instant batter I had packed and then set off for Fargo on backroads: the Central Lakes terminus is Fergus. 

     I was quite the grind out of Fergus. Definitely 200ft+ of climbing to leave town and get on the county road that we’d take most of the way into Moorhead. This was the stretch I was most worried about. Mainly a small shoulder and possibly hostile drivers. Traffic was quite sparse though (I also figured this might be the case) and most people that passed us waved as they went. Rolled 13ish miles into the hamlet of Carlisle where we stopped for a quick water break before continuing. The headwind was present, but no where near what it would be later in the day.

     Rothsay was up next. They had a gas station/cafe where we got a doughnut and some milk and ended up chatting up another dude biking; but he was headed across the country. I still don’t think I have interest in doing so, but he had said that he just retired and decided to do it while he still could. I could see that being something I’d be open to doing at that age. Rolled another 14 into Barnesville where we stopped for lunch at the Purple Goose cafe. I tried to avoid brown food with a BLT, but then got fries, because why not. And then I felt kind of sick after doing that (and that’s why not).

     Post Barnesville was where the grind really began. We knew it would be tough. The road bent more west and the wind was continuing to pick up. We decided we’d do 7-9 mile segments, stopping at each “town” before we hit Moorhead 22ish miles away. Leaving Barnesville was pretty brutal. Greg took most of the brunt of it leading and we got into Baker without saying much about it, but at pretty low morale (and then talked about it at the stop). Winds were probably 20+ mph sustained with gusts into the 30s. 

     Stopped again at Sabin, mainly again to get some water and rest. We had saved a left over monster cookie from last night and took a half. I was still pretty full, but needed it mentally as much as anything.

     The last stretch was at least fresh pavement and we could slowly see signs of Moorhead as we approached. On bike, the smallest things count. An “adopt-a-highway” sign sponsored by an MSU sorority. A massive grain elevator rising in the distance. High voltage power lines clearly extending out optimistically for future growth. Not a lot slips by when you need something to take your mind off the relentless wind.

     Finally hit the outer neighborhoods and very soon after a dedicated bike path again. We just barely beat the afternoon closing time for the Moorhead pool where we showered up and were quite an attraction for the local 7 or so boys that typically don’t see someone shower without a suit on.

     Rode down to Junkyard next for a flight and the beginning of a celebration. We knew they made great beer and it was part of the goal for the trip to begin with. Grabbed a flight, then wound our way into Fargo via backstreets.

     Moorhead seems pretty blue color. The neighborhoods looked alright, but certainly not ritzy. Moorhead in general had a lot of 4-lane roads and railroad tracks that took away from the charm of it.

     Swung by the Amtrak station to see a sign posted stating that you couldn’t check luggage today (no reason given) and that the ticked off was also closed. We called Amtrak and were able to confirm that we could still load our bikes onto the train regardless. The train unfortunately doesn’t come through Fargo until 2am, so we still had a ton of time to kill before go time. 

     We biked back to the park along the river and read/napped for a little before setting off for dinner at a fried chicken sandwich shop and then continuing our Brewery tour. 

     Fargo Brewing was cool, but not quite as happening as Drekker down the road. Drekker is kind of the sleek, new, younger brother to the older, Fargo Brewing. Both have good beer. Fargo is more standard varieties whereas Drekker caters to further and further out on the adjective spectrum.

     Played some cribbage games at each as well as a couple others from their selection before heading the 6-8 blocks back downtown. It’s not great waiting until 2 for the train, but there is something kind of cool to ripping around Fargo at night on your bike.

     Insomnia cookies is a national chain that is open late and is a solid dessert. They had one on their main drag, so we pit-stopped there before heading back to the station hoping* that the lobby would be open at least rather than sitting out on the platform or finding another bar (I felt plenty gross by now for the cumulative choices made over the last 4 days). 

     We were fortunate to have it open, so I sit her writing this with just over 90 minutes before the train comes. It’s a bit of a pain to end the trip this way, but honestly a small bump for another great adventure and a cool accomplishment.